Surfing is supposed to be fun, right? So why am I sitting out here so damn pissed off? Maybe it’s that dude who will not shut the fuck up. He paddles back out after every wave he catches and has to give a complete rundown to someone. He doesn’t even give a shit who. As […]
UNMATCHED
I’ve long held firm to my belief that a surfer’s only asset is the content they create. Maybe that’s why we see the largest content creators thriving the most in the surf world. Sure, they work a lot, but is it really work? Admittedly, JOB seemed like he was running out of steam for a […]
CRICKETS
It’s been quiet over here. A little too quiet. I can hear the crickets chirping outside my window. Weird. I don’t remember hearing crickets here before. And I thought I closed my window? I toss the covers off of me, spring up vertically to a sitting position, and listen close.. I just moved. Same city, […]
2 BIRDS 1 STONE
Mikey McDonagh, Jordan Lawler, and Al Cleland each won an event on the Challenger Series. Not one qualified for the Championship Tour next year. Ian Gouveia skipped 2 events and finished 2nd in the CS rankings. Miguel Pupo, Joel Vaughan, George Pittar, Edgard Groggia, and Jackson Bunch never even made a Final, yet they all […]
What’s the best wave you’ve ever caught in your life? I heard Taj Burrow give an interview about a recent session out at Cloudbreak where he caught the best wave of his life. He’s 46 years old. He surfed on Tour for who knows how many years, traversed the globe a handful of times surfing […]
PICK OF THE LITTER
Have we already talked about how fucking gnarly the Challenger Series is? For example, Jordan Lawler didn’t surf at Snapper, but he won the first event he surfed in – the Sydney Pro. He then got 33rd in Ballito, and now has back-to-back 73rd (dead last) place results. He currently sits in 14th place on […]
RULE NUMBER THIRTY
The past month has been cold. So cold that it felt like Summer ended long ago. We’re not even 2 full weeks into Fall yet, but it feels like Winter. A bad one at that. No swell, really cold water, and pretty empty lineups. There have been a few sneaky days here and there with […]
FOR WHAT?
I had a really fun surf the other day. It was my 127th day surfing this year. I started keeping track of my surfs last year. I noticed my time in the water slipping a lot, so I wanted to make sure I hit a certain goal. I set my mark for 100 days of […]
If you’ve followed along with this website for any duration of the 3 and a half years it’s been around, you might have noticed something a little troubling. I know I am at fault, and I’m here to own up to it today. So here it goes – I’d like to apologize to any, and […]
POOL TOYS
“Remember, don’t take it too seriously; we’re making pool toys.” That was the last part of the sanding lesson my boss gave me yesterday, after I sanded through yet another board. It’s a long process – learning how to build boards, and it’s not easy. But neither is surfing. It was a long process to […]