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Since you are on this website and this is, of course, a site dedicated to surfing, I know that you are familiar with ‘Hawaiian Scale’ – The original GateKeeping. There are a ton of stories of how this came about: measuring from the back of the wave, lifeguards in Hawaii trying to negate tourists, surfers […]
This one is near and dear to my heart. Excuse me while I wax poetic for a few minutes. This is a rule that I know is being broken on the daily. I see it with my own eyes. It’s gotten bad, and I intend to make a video about it at some point. I […]
As I’ve gotten older, I’ve missed out on more surf sessions than I am proud to admit. A late wakeup, wind is on it, tides too high, it’ll be better in an hour, was better yesterday, too crowded, hungover, too much current, got somewhere to be in an hour, need to eat first – trust […]
The list keeps growing. There are a lot of other things going on in and around surfing this week, so I’ll get straight to it. The new addition to the rulebook, Rule Number 22: DO NOT EVER PADDLE IN FROM A SURF. Meaning; ride a wave in. You paddled out there to surf right? Which […]