.hvoide.
…Paddling back out from getting BURNT on a second consecutive wave …Looking back over my shoulder, shaking my head at the approaching culprit “NICE, dude! Not even gonna look? That’s two in a row. I know you heard me…” …The offender glides by, sending a blank, glazed over stare as he passes by me back […]
I’m reclined in the lazy boy. Heat 3 of the Opening Round at Lowers just started. Why is Kelly a wildcard? He’s 53 years old, for crying out loud. He can’t compete with anyone on the face of the wave these days, not even Alejo Muniz. It’s pretty shitty Lowers. Sheet glass, beautiful conditions, but […]
The first ever surf contest to be reported was held in 1928, at Corona Del Mar, California. Titled the ‘Pacific Coast Surf Riding Championships’, the event was organized by the city of Newport Beach. Surf competitions have come a long way since these early days of paddle contests, canoe tilting, surfboard races and life-saving demonstrations. […]
As I’ve gotten older, I’ve missed out on more surf sessions than I am proud to admit. A late wakeup, wind is on it, tides too high, it’ll be better in an hour, was better yesterday, too crowded, hungover, too much current, got somewhere to be in an hour, need to eat first – trust […]
Now that the wave pool is over, I want to share some thoughts. As you may recall, I recently informed you of a little movement going on in our corner of the play room – a boycott of the WSL’s Abu Dhabi wave pool party event. I just wanted to ask if those same boycotters […]
“I’ve seen bigger waves in a toilet.” It’s that time of year again! The most hotly debated contest of the WSL’s entire existence is upon us. Not only is this event back at a wave pool, this one is located in Abu Dhabi, an area where human rights are held precariously. It is such a […]
Jordy Smith dropped an insane movie last week. A mind bending, perspective altering watch. My immediate thought – is Jordy the best 37 year old surfer, ever? I had to go back to 2010 Kelly clips to find out the short answer – no. If Jordy can win the title this year, like we were […]
Hey! What are you doing? No you’re not. What are you doing? I’m looking at you right now. You’re not riding a wave. What are you doing? Why? Why are you waiting for a wave? What about that one? So why are you waiting? Why? What makes a good one anyway? Can’t you have fun […]
This one has brought up some heated debates. Truth be told, if you are arguing against this rule, I’m not so sure how fun you are to surf with. It’s pretty straight forward. It feels like common sense, but you might be surprised.. Rule Number Eight – IF IT’S CROWDED, WEAR A LEASH. Look, I […]
Week of 12/30 – 1/5/25 Well I hope you all had a great Christmas and that you’re ready for the New Year. I told you that I’m stepping up my game over here. It’s time to take this shit (kinda) serious. Otherwise I’m just wasting time; yours and mine. With that being said, today’s Monday. […]