.hvoide.
Since you are on this website and this is, of course, a site dedicated to surfing, I know that you are familiar with ‘Hawaiian Scale’ – The original GateKeeping. There are a ton of stories of how this came about: measuring from the back of the wave, lifeguards in Hawaii trying to negate tourists, surfers […]
As I’ve gotten older, I’ve missed out on more surf sessions than I am proud to admit. A late wakeup, wind is on it, tides too high, it’ll be better in an hour, was better yesterday, too crowded, hungover, too much current, got somewhere to be in an hour, need to eat first – trust […]
The past month has been cold. So cold that it felt like Summer ended long ago. We’re not even 2 full weeks into Fall yet, but it feels like Winter. A bad one at that. No swell, really cold water, and pretty empty lineups. There have been a few sneaky days here and there with […]