Surfers are negative. Let me give you an example. Your buddy sends you a text around noon, “Just got out of the water, it’s pumping. Got a few solid barrels.” What’s your immediate reaction? Do you believe them? You may be like me, in that you are much quicker to take someone’s word when they […]
PLATE
I am closing in on my goal of 100 days surfing for the year. Currently sitting at 96, I’m sure to break this within the next 2 weeks. (2 weeks for 4 days? I know. That’s fucked. I’ve got work, and I generally don’t surf on the weekends. Give me a break. Only 3 days […]
TRAFFIC
Do you know what helps traffic move a lot quicker? If you weave back and forth between lanes, and drive as close as possible to the car in front of you. The Southern California freeways are an absolute shit show around the holidays. I just got home. I went just over 125 miles away to […]
COMMODITY
The more often I surf, the more I realize that accessories are a commodity for the committed. For example, if I have 20 ties, but I only wear my suit once a month, that’s a bit of a waste right? Right. Since I’m in the water a lot nowadays, here’s a list of accessories I […]
HOT TOPIC
Two stories have been crossing my face more often than not this past week. I guess if I’m going to attempt to bring you this website that is (mostly) surf related, I might as well give you “the news” as well. It’s funny the way these things work in the surfing world. One source will […]
WAX
It’s 5:30pm, and I just took the wax off my board without any sun on it. Haven’t done that in quite a while. It is indeed fall. I couldn’t get all the wax off. Too many pressure dings all over. Wax combs can’t quite hit all the spots it needs to. A razor blade works […]
WAYSIDE
Growing up in a prominent surf town, I’ve always had the privilege of being surrounded by some great surf shops. Most of the shops that are still around are so because they do well; they are busy. And if you ever have the chance to visit one of these distinguished stores, you might notice how […]
A WASTE
This post is going to be an absolute mess, and I already know it. There’s nothing particular being said at all. This is your warning, if you don’t feel like wasting a couple minutes of your life, go ahead and click on out of here.. I don’t really have much to say. What’s on my […]
THE BIG SHOW
It’s been 2 days since the official end of the 2023 competitive surf season and I’m ready to get into next year. That’s not completely true as there are still a lot of regional QS events left in this calendar year, but for the big show, we’re rolling into next season. It is a funny […]
Have you tuned in to this last CS contest? What a doozie! Not only the action itself, but obviously all of the qualification implications – it’s been nuts. Action-packed, one could say. Highs and lows, heartbreaks and triumphs, surprises and upsets, we’ve seen just about all of the above so far. And we haven’t even […]