coffee convo Hwilsin writing



Just recently was the first time I had ever heard that phrase in my life. It was no joke though. Relative to Southern California, we did see a lot of rain. It kept me out of the water for about a month. I’m back now, which brings me here.

I debated breaking my superstition of surfing after the rain. There were a few windows where local zones got really good. Nonetheless, I just got back on the horse this past week. The water is still brownish. Tons of trash on the sand. Lots of people enjoying the February sun on the beach. It’s been a pleasurable return to the water.

As for my return to this, the slamming of the keys, I’ve found myself with a very lackadaisical attitude towards it. I’ve literally had to write down questions and answers as to why I spend any time on this. Here’s the gist of my hesitance – I feel like the general public doesn’t have much of an attention span for reading much anymore, especially online. If you’re online, you’re likely on your phone. If you’re on your phone, you are only a click away from clicking open an app and scrolling through endless entertainment that the algorithm cooks up directly suited for you. That’s tough to compete with.

Whatever. I’m not really trying to compete anymore. I’m more of a freesurfer at this point in my career. I’m just stacking clips, posting half of them into the hvoide that is social media and the internet. I just haven’t found the sponsors to send me around the world on their dime yet..

While on my hiatus, the ‘surf season’ got off to an action packed start. With the nonstop content influx, you have surely been tapped into this “news”. Things like 2% taking over the youth surf world (4 Challenger Series graduates, Jett Schilling World Junior Champ, etc.), which I warned you about, John John Florence being back in World Title form, Carissa and Steph stepping away from competition, “Pipe is for the fucking girls”, Filipe Toledo taking the year off, you know, surf news. 

The competitive side of surfing is in its most interesting period of recent history. Aside from Trestles ending the whole thing, of course. Although it does get a bit more compelling this year with Filipe out of the mix. Rumors of an ownership change (read: sale) swirl about. The Olympics also return this year. It’s eerily quiet on that front for now. Questions loom – will they build the tower that is frowned upon? Will Filipe surf? To be answered sooner than later.

Surf media is somewhat flourishing via social media and youtube. The magazines are gone, but there are a few websites doing well. Anything you want to see is probably on Instagram. The reels are endless. Even if the content you are looking for is locked behind a paywall, it will come out in time. Overall, there’s more surf content than one could possibly ask for.

There’s a lot I’m looking forward to getting into. For now, just know I’m back in action. I’m surfing. I’m judging a few times a month. My glassing “apprenticeship” has resumed. Fully entrenched. And stoked.

Thank you for the time,

Drew Stanfield


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