Is surfing superstitious in any way? For example, do you have a mojo before a surf? Specific stretching routine? Certain playlist you listen to on the way to the beach? Do you only use a particular wax? Smoke two joints in the morning? Think of your typical lot lizard who refuses to paddle out anywhere but his ‘local break’, for example. I’ve seen guys roll up ready to surf, then, upon seeing that ‘their’ parking spot was taken, peel out in rage.
I’m not just talking about a hit or miss thing either. I know the local “longboard” Tuesdays are somewhat of a big deal. Skip that – what I’m asking is this – is there something you HAVE to do everytime you surf, without exception? Waxing the top of your feet? Those silicone earplugs? Sunscreen? Call your wife and tell her you love her?? For that matter, is there anything you absolutely can NOT do? I’ve heard of some people refusing to check a surf camera before driving down to check with their own eyes..
Maybe your delusion doesn’t even take place before or during a surf. Here’s a stumper for you – have you ever been able to visibly see, with your eyes, any CT surfer’s wax on their board? Honestly? Those guys and gals have to be changing the wax on and off those sleds for every surf, and in between each heat by the looks of it. So maybe you follow the pro’s, shedding the paraffin off after each 2 shreds. You know what they say: look good, feel good. Feel good and surf like shit.
Most superstitions are presumably followed because one believes it will make them better, keep them safe, or control the situation they are entering. Superstitions are all about mind state. What’s truly interesting is that beyond all the doubt, laughter, and heckling, one will still truly believe in their routine ritual, not unlike a religion.
Gauging the fortuitous nature that surfing has, I think some surfers could truly benefit from a custom practice before or during a session. A regular stop at the donut shop on the way down won’t kill anyone (hopefully). I actually believe every so-called ‘surfer’ should be superstitious about being out of the water for too long. It’s for good reason, trust me.
Particularly regarding professional athletes, I would love to see one of our ‘sports’ heroes come up with some kind of pre-heat dance, a la Ray Lewis. This would get the fire going for the public. I just saw a video of Marshawn ‘BeastMode’ Lynch admitting he had a shot, to a shot and a half, of Hennessy before every NFL game. I could see Jacko Baker throwing down a few cold ones to shake the nerves. I think about the Stanley Cup Playoffs – when every NHL (pro hockey) player grows out his beard. Maybe if I wear the same trunks underneath my wetsuit everytime I surf, I can be the next Kelly Slater. Or maybe one day I’ll at least be able to surf at his Surf Ranch…
Upon starting this post I didn’t know I had any personal surfing superstitions. One notion has been brought to my attention. I will not surf the day after a serious rain. Unsure if this disqualifies the idea of being a superstition, but I once got so sick from surfing after a rain, I had to get a shot plunged in my ass cheek to be able to hold down any food or water. Never again. Surfing while it’s raining is acceptable.
This brings yet another oddity of mine to mind. This may be common, but after a surf and a rinse of my wetsuit, I hang it up folded in half over 2 hangers. I always dry the inside first, and then before going to bed at night, flip it right-side-out and let the outside dry. If I forget, at least the inside is drier than the outside for tomorrow’s session.
I asked a couple of friends if they had any beliefs, rules, or weird quirks they perform based around surfing. I received varied responses. It seemed the majority don’t really put much thought into it, they just hop in the water and have a good time. One mentioned he takes the same trail to surf everyday, touching one specific rock with his foot before paddling out, every day. One claimed it’s not a superstition, but he likes to catch a wave as quick as he can to, “get his feet in the wax”. I personally think everyone may have a little peculiar habit that surrounds surfing, most just might not have noticed yet.
Next few surfs you go for, try and take note of some of the things you do, or don’t do for each session. Maybe you have only worn booties twice and swore off them forever more? Left foot in the suit first? Wax the board before the wetsuit or after? Let me know what you find..
Thank you for the time.
-hwilsin