.hvoide.
Poor Marco Mignot. I hope someone called the cops; he just got robbed. Completely hosed. I’ve rewatched the Final at least 4 times now, and I will not be talked out of my opinion – Mignot should have beat Cleland and won the US Open. I don’t know if it’s a matter of industry favoritism, […]
“Hey, um, excuse me, would you happen to have some sunscreen I could borrow?” “Bro. Sunscreen? Fuck no. That’s poison. Shit gives you cancer. You need vitamin D from the sun.” “Oh, okay.” “Seriously, it’s horrible for you. It’s like shampoo; they tell you to use it so your hair gets all fucked, falls out […]
The list keeps growing. There are a lot of other things going on in and around surfing this week, so I’ll get straight to it. The new addition to the rulebook, Rule Number 22: DO NOT EVER PADDLE IN FROM A SURF. Meaning; ride a wave in. You paddled out there to surf right? Which […]
Technically speaking, the US Open got started this past Saturday. We’re back. Sublime played down on the sand. I heard it was about $200 for a ticket. Bradley Nowell’s son Jakob is now singing with the band, so that’s rad. The only surfing that has gone down so far has been longboarding. I do have […]
The best waves are the ones that we don’t see coming; the unexpected swell. Showing up to the beach ready for a regular old rinse, but then the waves are cooking – that’s one of the best feelings in surfing. The lineups are much emptier than they should be. There’s plenty of parking. Nobody in […]
Screen it. Blow it off. Tape off the boxes. Patches over the boxes. Pull the cloth. Cut the cloth. Roll the cloth. Laminates down. Make sure you have your tools ready. Clean your bucket. Pull the resin. Pour the hardener. Mix. Well. Place your logos. Roll cloth back. Wet out fin patches. Any other logos […]
Back at it again with the white Vans! Remember that meme? That’s me; back with another Surf Rule. This one came into effect for myself today, so it’s really fresh. You’ve surely heard the saying “never drive away from surf”. While this does hold true, it’s not an official rule. The reason being that your […]
“Dude, that last one had the biggest end section, and I totally bitched out” “Bro, did you see my last wave? I tried to pull in the barrel on that one.” “It’s so good out here! Way better than yesterday.” It was not so good out there. It was not better than the day before. […]
I’ve got a confession to make. I have previously declared my hatred for surf cameras. You probably know this. Well, I am now here to admit mass hypocrisy on my part. See, the thing I loathe about the cams is the basic idea of it; checking the waves before you go surf. That’s fucking lame. […]
Summer is here. I’ve already shared with you the Golden Rule to follow for this “surf season”, if you will. Since that writing, however, it has come to my attention that there are a lot more rules and regulations that need to be mentioned. I’m attempting to write an unwritten rule book; things you should […]