.hvoide.
Don’t think about it, just go. Paddle out. Put your suit on and catch a couple. Remember, 3 waves counts as a surf. 3 waves, or an hour – your call. When’s the last time you regretted surfing? When have you gotten out of the water and were actually bummed that you paddled out? I […]
I’ve long held firm to my belief that a surfer’s only asset is the content they create. Maybe that’s why we see the largest content creators thriving the most in the surf world. Sure, they work a lot, but is it really work? Admittedly, JOB seemed like he was running out of steam for a […]
It’s been quiet over here. A little too quiet. I can hear the crickets chirping outside my window. Weird. I don’t remember hearing crickets here before. And I thought I closed my window? I toss the covers off of me, spring up vertically to a sitting position, and listen close.. I just moved. Same city, […]
What’s the best wave you’ve ever caught in your life? I heard Taj Burrow give an interview about a recent session out at Cloudbreak where he caught the best wave of his life. He’s 46 years old. He surfed on Tour for who knows how many years, traversed the globe a handful of times surfing […]
I had a really fun surf the other day. It was my 127th day surfing this year. I started keeping track of my surfs last year. I noticed my time in the water slipping a lot, so I wanted to make sure I hit a certain goal. I set my mark for 100 days of […]
“Remember, don’t take it too seriously; we’re making pool toys.” That was the last part of the sanding lesson my boss gave me yesterday, after I sanded through yet another board. It’s a long process – learning how to build boards, and it’s not easy. But neither is surfing. It was a long process to […]
Surfers are negative. Let me give you an example. Your buddy sends you a text around noon, “Just got out of the water, it’s pumping. Got a few solid barrels.” What’s your immediate reaction? Do you believe them? You may be like me, in that you are much quicker to take someone’s word when they […]
I’ve been in the water a lot recently. It’s been nice. Last week I had two familiar encounters that brought me back to a headspace I hadn’t been in for quite some time. The first situation took place on Wednesday. A small, yet fun day out at the pier. Not too packed in comparison to […]
Did you all see this one yet? Nominee for burn of the year right? Well apparently we’ve missed the back story – we didn’t see any of the paddle, nor did we see either surfer get to their feet. Nonetheless, a scroll through the posts comment section might give you some background info. Mid 40’s […]
Within hours of me writing this seething, emotionally fueled opinion piece calling for action, the WSL comes through flaunting yet another head scratcher. If you stay up to date with surf media/press, you might have heard whispers of this move through Stab or possibly the Inertia (did they do a piece on this?). If not, […]