.hvoide.
It’s been quiet over here. A little too quiet. I can hear the crickets chirping outside my window. Weird. I don’t remember hearing crickets here before. And I thought I closed my window? I toss the covers off of me, spring up vertically to a sitting position, and listen close.. I just moved. Same city, […]
What’s the best wave you’ve ever caught in your life? I heard Taj Burrow give an interview about a recent session out at Cloudbreak where he caught the best wave of his life. He’s 46 years old. He surfed on Tour for who knows how many years, traversed the globe a handful of times surfing […]
“Remember, don’t take it too seriously; we’re making pool toys.” That was the last part of the sanding lesson my boss gave me yesterday, after I sanded through yet another board. It’s a long process – learning how to build boards, and it’s not easy. But neither is surfing. It was a long process to […]
The best waves are the ones that we don’t see coming; the unexpected swell. Showing up to the beach ready for a regular old rinse, but then the waves are cooking – that’s one of the best feelings in surfing. The lineups are much emptier than they should be. There’s plenty of parking. Nobody in […]
I generally don’t watch many surf videos on youtube. Definitely no vlogs. I’ve previously explained how I feel there is already too much surfing to get my eyes on, specifically on Instagram. Every clip hits the internet before the surfers get their hair dry, and you scroll through it within a day. What’s the point […]
Surfers are negative. Let me give you an example. Your buddy sends you a text around noon, “Just got out of the water, it’s pumping. Got a few solid barrels.” What’s your immediate reaction? Do you believe them? You may be like me, in that you are much quicker to take someone’s word when they […]
Two stories have been crossing my face more often than not this past week. I guess if I’m going to attempt to bring you this website that is (mostly) surf related, I might as well give you “the news” as well. It’s funny the way these things work in the surfing world. One source will […]
Well, I guess right back to the contest writing. I know it’s a bit redundant, but it’s something I am passionate about. Regardless of location, swell, conditions, surfers, board type, or anything else, I will tune into a live surf contest to watch if given the opportunity. There’s a pro junior going on in Japan […]
I’ve been in the water a lot recently. It’s been nice. Last week I had two familiar encounters that brought me back to a headspace I hadn’t been in for quite some time. The first situation took place on Wednesday. A small, yet fun day out at the pier. Not too packed in comparison to […]
Did you all see this one yet? Nominee for burn of the year right? Well apparently we’ve missed the back story – we didn’t see any of the paddle, nor did we see either surfer get to their feet. Nonetheless, a scroll through the posts comment section might give you some background info. Mid 40’s […]