There’s a QS1000 going on in Mexico right now, and the camera work is atrocious. Heinous. Really bad. I had the contest on in the background for most of the day, but I actually tuned in for the last few heats. Wave looks really fun, but nothing special. And yeah, back to the cameras – […]
Tag: surfstory
FUN, RIGHT?
Surfing is supposed to be fun, right? So why am I sitting out here so damn pissed off? Maybe it’s that dude who will not shut the fuck up. He paddles back out after every wave he catches and has to give a complete rundown to someone. He doesn’t even give a shit who. As […]
UNMATCHED
I’ve long held firm to my belief that a surfer’s only asset is the content they create. Maybe that’s why we see the largest content creators thriving the most in the surf world. Sure, they work a lot, but is it really work? Admittedly, JOB seemed like he was running out of steam for a […]
CRICKETS
It’s been quiet over here. A little too quiet. I can hear the crickets chirping outside my window. Weird. I don’t remember hearing crickets here before. And I thought I closed my window? I toss the covers off of me, spring up vertically to a sitting position, and listen close.. I just moved. Same city, […]
2 BIRDS 1 STONE
Mikey McDonagh, Jordan Lawler, and Al Cleland each won an event on the Challenger Series. Not one qualified for the Championship Tour next year. Ian Gouveia skipped 2 events and finished 2nd in the CS rankings. Miguel Pupo, Joel Vaughan, George Pittar, Edgard Groggia, and Jackson Bunch never even made a Final, yet they all […]
What’s the best wave you’ve ever caught in your life? I heard Taj Burrow give an interview about a recent session out at Cloudbreak where he caught the best wave of his life. He’s 46 years old. He surfed on Tour for who knows how many years, traversed the globe a handful of times surfing […]
RULE NUMBER THIRTY
The past month has been cold. So cold that it felt like Summer ended long ago. We’re not even 2 full weeks into Fall yet, but it feels like Winter. A bad one at that. No swell, really cold water, and pretty empty lineups. There have been a few sneaky days here and there with […]
FOR WHAT?
I had a really fun surf the other day. It was my 127th day surfing this year. I started keeping track of my surfs last year. I noticed my time in the water slipping a lot, so I wanted to make sure I hit a certain goal. I set my mark for 100 days of […]
World Hold League strikes again. After about 7 hold calls yesterday, and finally a call off, the Corona Fiji Pro is officially underway today out at Cloudbreak. Heat 2 is in the water right now. Here are the heats: HEAT 1- Italo Ferreira vs. Ramzi Boukhiam vs. Leonardo Fioravanti HEAT 2- Jack Robinson vs. Ryan […]
RULE NUMBER NINE
“God damn it, an entire generation pumping gas, waiting tables; slaves with white collars. Advertising has us chasing cars and clothes, working jobs we hate so we can buy shit we don’t need. We’re the middle children of history, man. No purpose or place. We have no Great War. No Great Depression. Our Great War […]