You see those two guys over there? Yeah. They’re speaking some kind of weird language. It’s probably Portuguese. A lot of Brazilians have moved here recently. It’s not that. I’d recognize it. Something different. See? You hear that? Definitely never heard that before. Huh. Yeah. I don’t understand it. Kinda sounds like some made up […]
Tag: coffeeconvo
If you know me, or if you’ve read any of my work before, you know how much I would love to throw fuel on the bonfire that is the public scrutiny of the WSL right now. A couple of questionable judging calls have ignited the flame. Instead, I would like to take this opportunity to […]
CRYBABY
I surfed Southside yesterday. It was Thursday the 21st of March, 2024. It’s funny how bad Surfline is with their forecasts now. The day before (Wednesday) on the camera’s it said 3-4 feet. Thursday (yesterday) was forecasted to be smaller at 2-3 feet. This was not the case at all. On Wednesday, I caught a […]
SCIENCE
Surfing involves a lot of science. Physics, chemistry, oceanology, you remember those, don’t you? You may not need to be educated in the field of science to paddle out and have some fun at your local, but you will need a little information if you plan to do any kind of work on a surfboard. […]
DEATH SENTENCE
I don’t know if you know this, but I like to think I am a little bit educated on surfboards. Just slightly. I feel like I know more than your average guy who surfs, but less than anyone who has ever worked on a surfboard. I used to be naive – I thought I knew […]
Portugal is a tough event to watch live if you reside in the United States. Starting around midnight, the day is usually wrapping up around the time I’m getting ready for a surf here on the West Coast. That is bad news for my fantasy team. I like to look at the man-on-man matchups and […]
Entrenched
ATMOSPHERIC RIVER Just recently was the first time I had ever heard that phrase in my life. It was no joke though. Relative to Southern California, we did see a lot of rain. It kept me out of the water for about a month. I’m back now, which brings me here. I debated breaking my […]
NEGATIVE
Surfers are negative. Let me give you an example. Your buddy sends you a text around noon, “Just got out of the water, it’s pumping. Got a few solid barrels.” What’s your immediate reaction? Do you believe them? You may be like me, in that you are much quicker to take someone’s word when they […]
PLATE
I am closing in on my goal of 100 days surfing for the year. Currently sitting at 96, I’m sure to break this within the next 2 weeks. (2 weeks for 4 days? I know. That’s fucked. I’ve got work, and I generally don’t surf on the weekends. Give me a break. Only 3 days […]
TRAFFIC
Do you know what helps traffic move a lot quicker? If you weave back and forth between lanes, and drive as close as possible to the car in front of you. The Southern California freeways are an absolute shit show around the holidays. I just got home. I went just over 125 miles away to […]