The past month has been cold. So cold that it felt like Summer ended long ago. We’re not even 2 full weeks into Fall yet, but it feels like Winter. A bad one at that. No swell, really cold water, and pretty empty lineups. There have been a few sneaky days here and there with […]
Category: writing
FOR WHAT?
I had a really fun surf the other day. It was my 127th day surfing this year. I started keeping track of my surfs last year. I noticed my time in the water slipping a lot, so I wanted to make sure I hit a certain goal. I set my mark for 100 days of […]
If you’ve followed along with this website for any duration of the 3 and a half years it’s been around, you might have noticed something a little troubling. I know I am at fault, and I’m here to own up to it today. So here it goes – I’d like to apologize to any, and […]
POOL TOYS
“Remember, don’t take it too seriously; we’re making pool toys.” That was the last part of the sanding lesson my boss gave me yesterday, after I sanded through yet another board. It’s a long process – learning how to build boards, and it’s not easy. But neither is surfing. It was a long process to […]
GUILTY BY ASSOCIATION
Did Caity Simmers just ruin ‘big’ surfboard manufacturing? One could argue that John has basically done the same thing. What the hell am I even on about, you might ask. Well, if you’ve kept up with the WSL World Tour over the last two years then you know about the Vissla Shaper Rankings – the […]
John John Florence and Caity Simmers are your 2024 World Surf League World Title winners. The Champions. The pair went into Finals Day – Friday, Sept. 6th, each sitting atop their respective division; two heat wins away from glory. Caity had to wait until noon for her first wave out at Lower Trestles. John paddled […]
GHOST
There’s a little secret I want to share with you. If you are riding an Al Merrick surfboard right now, or have owned one anytime within the last 10 years, there is a very high likelihood that Al Merrick did not actually shape that board. “That’s because Britt is the shaper now,” you might think. […]
SHOULDA, COULDA, WOULDA
Commonly referred to as “one of the best to never win a World Title”, Julian Wilson is attempting to make his return to competition. Per his Instagram: “This time three years ago I was sitting in a hotel quarantine room in the aftermath of my Tokyo Olympic campaign, watching my dream as a WT surfer […]
World Hold League strikes again. After about 7 hold calls yesterday, and finally a call off, the Corona Fiji Pro is officially underway today out at Cloudbreak. Heat 2 is in the water right now. Here are the heats: HEAT 1- Italo Ferreira vs. Ramzi Boukhiam vs. Leonardo Fioravanti HEAT 2- Jack Robinson vs. Ryan […]
RULE NUMBER NINE
“God damn it, an entire generation pumping gas, waiting tables; slaves with white collars. Advertising has us chasing cars and clothes, working jobs we hate so we can buy shit we don’t need. We’re the middle children of history, man. No purpose or place. We have no Great War. No Great Depression. Our Great War […]