Tag: swellstory

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coffee convo Hwilsin writing

CRICKETS

A surf story about a nightmare. Crickets sound.

It’s been quiet over here. A little too quiet. I can hear the crickets chirping outside my window. Weird. I don’t remember hearing crickets here before. And I thought I closed my window? I toss the covers off of me, spring up vertically to a sitting position, and listen close.. I just moved. Same city, […]

Categories
coffee convo Hwilsin writing

RINSE

A long surf when the waves are unexpectedly good.

The best waves are the ones that we don’t see coming; the unexpected swell. Showing up to the beach ready for a regular old rinse, but then the waves are cooking – that’s one of the best feelings in surfing. The lineups are much emptier than they should be. There’s plenty of parking. Nobody in […]