.hvoide.
Dear Santa, I’ve been good this year. I’ve surfed a lot. Almost as much as I could. I’ve been sharing some surfing rules with the people, the community. It’s my way of giving back. Heck, some of the guys and gals are loving how the Rulebook is coming along. I hope you’ll like it. I […]
Don’t think about it, just go. Paddle out. Put your suit on and catch a couple. Remember, 3 waves counts as a surf. 3 waves, or an hour – your call. When’s the last time you regretted surfing? When have you gotten out of the water and were actually bummed that you paddled out? I […]
There’s a QS1000 going on in Mexico right now, and the camera work is atrocious. Heinous. Really bad. I had the contest on in the background for most of the day, but I actually tuned in for the last few heats. Wave looks really fun, but nothing special. And yeah, back to the cameras – […]
Surfing is supposed to be fun, right? So why am I sitting out here so damn pissed off? Maybe it’s that dude who will not shut the fuck up. He paddles back out after every wave he catches and has to give a complete rundown to someone. He doesn’t even give a shit who. As […]
I’ve long held firm to my belief that a surfer’s only asset is the content they create. Maybe that’s why we see the largest content creators thriving the most in the surf world. Sure, they work a lot, but is it really work? Admittedly, JOB seemed like he was running out of steam for a […]
It’s been quiet over here. A little too quiet. I can hear the crickets chirping outside my window. Weird. I don’t remember hearing crickets here before. And I thought I closed my window? I toss the covers off of me, spring up vertically to a sitting position, and listen close.. I just moved. Same city, […]
Mikey McDonagh, Jordan Lawler, and Al Cleland each won an event on the Challenger Series. Not one qualified for the Championship Tour next year. Ian Gouveia skipped 2 events and finished 2nd in the CS rankings. Miguel Pupo, Joel Vaughan, George Pittar, Edgard Groggia, and Jackson Bunch never even made a Final, yet they all […]
What’s the best wave you’ve ever caught in your life? I heard Taj Burrow give an interview about a recent session out at Cloudbreak where he caught the best wave of his life. He’s 46 years old. He surfed on Tour for who knows how many years, traversed the globe a handful of times surfing […]
The past month has been cold. So cold that it felt like Summer ended long ago. We’re not even 2 full weeks into Fall yet, but it feels like Winter. A bad one at that. No swell, really cold water, and pretty empty lineups. There have been a few sneaky days here and there with […]
I had a really fun surf the other day. It was my 127th day surfing this year. I started keeping track of my surfs last year. I noticed my time in the water slipping a lot, so I wanted to make sure I hit a certain goal. I set my mark for 100 days of […]