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Jordy Smith dropped an insane movie last week. A mind bending, perspective altering watch. My immediate thought – is Jordy the best 37 year old surfer, ever? I had to go back to 2010 Kelly clips to find out the short answer – no. If Jordy can win the title this year, like we were […]
Hey! What are you doing? No you’re not. What are you doing? I’m looking at you right now. You’re not riding a wave. What are you doing? Why? Why are you waiting for a wave? What about that one? So why are you waiting? Why? What makes a good one anyway? Can’t you have fun […]
This one has brought up some heated debates. Truth be told, if you are arguing against this rule, I’m not so sure how fun you are to surf with. It’s pretty straight forward. It feels like common sense, but you might be surprised.. Rule Number Eight – IF IT’S CROWDED, WEAR A LEASH. Look, I […]
There’s been a ton happening in and around surfing, and I’ve done a terrible job of keeping you up to date. My apologies. I’ve been busy. It’s quite a job that guy Santa has. My older son is at the age where he’s enamoured with Christmas. Advent calendars, Elf on the Shelf, cookies & milk, […]
Dear Santa, I’ve been good this year. I’ve surfed a lot. Almost as much as I could. I’ve been sharing some surfing rules with the people, the community. It’s my way of giving back. Heck, some of the guys and gals are loving how the Rulebook is coming along. I hope you’ll like it. I […]
Don’t think about it, just go. Paddle out. Put your suit on and catch a couple. Remember, 3 waves counts as a surf. 3 waves, or an hour – your call. When’s the last time you regretted surfing? When have you gotten out of the water and were actually bummed that you paddled out? I […]
There’s a QS1000 going on in Mexico right now, and the camera work is atrocious. Heinous. Really bad. I had the contest on in the background for most of the day, but I actually tuned in for the last few heats. Wave looks really fun, but nothing special. And yeah, back to the cameras – […]
Surfing is supposed to be fun, right? So why am I sitting out here so damn pissed off? Maybe it’s that dude who will not shut the fuck up. He paddles back out after every wave he catches and has to give a complete rundown to someone. He doesn’t even give a shit who. As […]
I’ve long held firm to my belief that a surfer’s only asset is the content they create. Maybe that’s why we see the largest content creators thriving the most in the surf world. Sure, they work a lot, but is it really work? Admittedly, JOB seemed like he was running out of steam for a […]
It’s been quiet over here. A little too quiet. I can hear the crickets chirping outside my window. Weird. I don’t remember hearing crickets here before. And I thought I closed my window? I toss the covers off of me, spring up vertically to a sitting position, and listen close.. I just moved. Same city, […]