.hvoide.
“Hey, um, excuse me, would you happen to have some sunscreen I could borrow?” “Bro. Sunscreen? Fuck no. That’s poison. Shit gives you cancer. You need vitamin D from the sun.” “Oh, okay.” “Seriously, it’s horrible for you. It’s like shampoo; they tell you to use it so your hair gets all fucked, falls out […]
The list keeps growing. There are a lot of other things going on in and around surfing this week, so I’ll get straight to it. The new addition to the rulebook, Rule Number 22: DO NOT EVER PADDLE IN FROM A SURF. Meaning; ride a wave in. You paddled out there to surf right? Which […]
Technically speaking, the US Open got started this past Saturday. We’re back. Sublime played down on the sand. I heard it was about $200 for a ticket. Bradley Nowell’s son Jakob is now singing with the band, so that’s rad. The only surfing that has gone down so far has been longboarding. I do have […]
The best waves are the ones that we don’t see coming; the unexpected swell. Showing up to the beach ready for a regular old rinse, but then the waves are cooking – that’s one of the best feelings in surfing. The lineups are much emptier than they should be. There’s plenty of parking. Nobody in […]