.hvoide.
The past month has been cold. So cold that it felt like Summer ended long ago. We’re not even 2 full weeks into Fall yet, but it feels like Winter. A bad one at that. No swell, really cold water, and pretty empty lineups. There have been a few sneaky days here and there with […]
“God damn it, an entire generation pumping gas, waiting tables; slaves with white collars. Advertising has us chasing cars and clothes, working jobs we hate so we can buy shit we don’t need. We’re the middle children of history, man. No purpose or place. We have no Great War. No Great Depression. Our Great War […]
The list keeps growing. There are a lot of other things going on in and around surfing this week, so I’ll get straight to it. The new addition to the rulebook, Rule Number 22: DO NOT EVER PADDLE IN FROM A SURF. Meaning; ride a wave in. You paddled out there to surf right? Which […]
Back at it again with the white Vans! Remember that meme? That’s me; back with another Surf Rule. This one came into effect for myself today, so it’s really fresh. You’ve surely heard the saying “never drive away from surf”. While this does hold true, it’s not an official rule. The reason being that your […]
Summer is here. I’ve already shared with you the Golden Rule to follow for this “surf season”, if you will. Since that writing, however, it has come to my attention that there are a lot more rules and regulations that need to be mentioned. I’m attempting to write an unwritten rule book; things you should […]