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coffee convo Hwilsin tour talk writing

RULE NUMBER ELEVEN

As I’ve gotten older, I’ve missed out on more surf sessions than I am proud to admit. A late wakeup, wind is on it, tides too high, it’ll be better in an hour, was better yesterday, too crowded, hungover, too much current, got somewhere to be in an hour, need to eat first – trust […]

Categories
coffee convo Hwilsin writing

RULE NUMBER THIRTY

The past month has been cold. So cold that it felt like Summer ended long ago. We’re not even 2 full weeks into Fall yet, but it feels like Winter. A bad one at that. No swell, really cold water, and pretty empty lineups. There have been a few sneaky days here and there with […]