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coffee convo Hwilsin writing

OXYMORON

Oxymoron – a figure of speech in which apparently contradictory terms appear in conjunction.


I just heard the best oxymoron Iโ€™ve ever heard in my life, and it came from someone commonly referred to as โ€œoffโ€. Heโ€™s also widely called one of the greatest surfers of all time. Tom Curren recently joined Sterling Spencer on his podcast โ€˜Pinch My Saltโ€™, and if you have an hour to spare, I highly recommend it.


Sterling is one of the funniest characters in surfing right now. His personality, his comedic outlook on surfing – and life in general – bring out a really funny side of Tom. It seems like the two really enjoyed each other; it makes for a great listen. Sterlingโ€™s got the editing and social media clipping down to a science too. I see his clips on my Reels page everyday. Heโ€™s always trending amongst the surf โ€˜communityโ€™.

They riff on some of Tomโ€™s history, surf culture, soft tops and board design – which is where things get really interesting. Sterling brings up a clip of Dane Reynolds riding one of Tomโ€™s personal boards, a clip in which Dane is bogging rail really hard on two attempted turns.

โ€œHe can’t even bottom turn! Heโ€™s digging rail!โ€ exclaims Spencer. 

โ€œIt could have been that wave was too good for that board.โ€   – Tom Curren


Excuse me, what? What the fuck did he just say? The waveโ€ฆ too good, for – the board?

What does that even mean? Do I now have a perfectly good excuse to use for any wave, nay – any maneuver that I blow?

Dig rail, miss the section, foot slipping off, poking the nose – ehh, that wave was too good for this board.


Dude, what? What did you say? You fuckin fell !

Yeah, but that wave was too good for this board! Tom Curren even said it’s a thing! This board works in Crummy Waves! 


Thanks Tom. And thanks Sterling. Keep up the great work.


Cheers,

hwilsin

Drew Stanfield

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