As I’ve gotten older, I’ve missed out on more surf sessions than I am proud to admit. A late wakeup, wind is on it, tides too high, it’ll be better in an hour, was better yesterday, too crowded, hungover, too much current, got somewhere to be in an hour, need to eat first – trust me, my excuse list is majestic. But now with my opportunity window dwindling as well, I’ve been itching to surf.
I remember the days when I would paddle out in any conditions. Huge, tiny, wind slop, brown rain water, it didn’t matter – we’re out there. I’ve been working hard to get my mentality back to this space, and that is the rule for today.
When in doubt, paddle out.
If you have a chance to surf, just go surf. If you don’t have a chance to surf, make some time and go surf. Cancel your doctor’s appointment. Play hookie. Ask the in-law’s to pick up the kids. Find one of those sessions that we all had as a grom – when we dropped everything to get a surf in.
Why? Because one day you are not going to be able to surf anymore. You’ll look back at the days you did surf and truly cherish those memories. As small and cold and shitty and sketchy as a surf can be, I’ve yet to get out of the water pissed off that I paddled out.
If you’re even thinking about going surfing, paddle out. You will thank yourself (and me) later.
Cheers,
-hwilsin
-Drew Stanfield