Sometimes I forget that I have been surfing for about 20 years and that it is very easy for me to overlook the basics of surfing. I was reminded of that in multiple ways this past week. There are a few primary Surf Rules that I need to add in to the Unwritten Rulebook Of Surfing that I have been writing.
First, my friend Seth just returned from El Salvador for his birthday trip, something he has been doing for the last 5 years or so. I also went to El Salvador for my first ever trip out of the country a little over a month ago. The sheer amount of newness, of culture shock had me trying to take in as much as possible, but it is impossible to grasp it all. El Salvador, as a country, is really leaning into Surf Tourism. They are calling it ‘Surf City’, which I’m sure you are aware of. The town that I stayed in, El Tunco, had more surf shops and surf schools than even my own hometown, ‘Surf City’ Huntington Beach. Posted around the town and in front of surf breaks were signs displaying the proper ‘etiquette’, or basically, Surf Rules. I had completely disregarded these signs, as I already know the Rules (You Know Da Rulez!). I was reminded of them this past week when I saw Seth put up a post saying he helped in the design and distribution of these. I actually have a photo of a handout I found while there.
So that was one reminder of basic rules that I have been overlooking. Not everyone knows the rules, and some people need to be reminded daily – especially when you are first learning. The second recollection came in the water just last week. I was surfing Northside where the crowds have been absolutely out of hand. The waves have been pretty damn good, and there are clips posted on social media daily of a few of the locals getting spit out of tubes. For some reason or another, that makes everyone within striking distance think they should come and surf the Northside Pier Bowl. They shouldn’t.
I believe the big days last week were early on – Monday – Wednesday. As the swell started to taper off a little, the crowd filled in more; shocker. Don’t get me wrong, it was still crowded on those bigger days, it just got even more hectic on Thursday and Friday. There were still a few waves around, and it was offshore and picturesque. A surfer is up and riding on one of the waves of the morning I think on Thursday. It’s a bigger set left, and he’s setting up off the bottom getting ready to get barreled. He’s getting hooted at by half the lineup. About 20 yards down the line and on the shoulder, some idiot is scratching trying to get in under the lip in the offshores. He gets enough momentum and goes to stand up, completely scorching the other guy. I don’t even know what happened or how, but he falls down the face with the lip, tumbling down the face of the wave. Audible groans from the lineup – at least 20 surfers just witnessed one of the worst burns I’ve seen in years. Luckily the other surfer was far enough back that he surfed around him, but he definitely didn’t get barreled like he should have, and I think he just made it around the section and kicked out. Completely ruined his wave.
“That was heavy!!”
“DUDE! What the fuck are you doing?”
Multiple people had questions and comments for this surfer on the shoulder. His response: “I didn’t see him.”
To the surfer he burned, a plain, “Sorry. I didn’t see you,”
Not a sincere apologies either. At least it didn’t sound that way. Just a half-ass, forced apology because people were vibing him and giving him shit. Maybe he was embarrassed – half the fucking lineup was hooting at the other guy about to get the wave of the morning. EVERYONE saw him.
Which brings me to Rule Number Three of the Unwritten Rulebook Of Surfing that I am writing:
LOOK BOTH WAYS BEFORE YOU GO
Look behind you so that you don’t burn anyone.
Look in front of you so that you know you’re not going to run anyone over.
Just have a fucking look before you take off on a wave.
I forget how basic this is to me. I do it without even thinking too much about it. I know if, and when I’m going to burn someone, 99% of the time. And the only reason I’ll do it is if I truly think that surfer is not going to make the wave or the section. I stopped burning my friends for fun a long time ago. Whatever, just fucking look before you go. It’s like driving a car; would you pull up to a 4 way intersection and just blow through it without looking? I sure as shit hope not. Don’t do this in the water. Have a look.
If you’d like to have a browse, a quick reminder of the growing list that is the Unwritten Rulebook Of Surfing, click here.
Cheers,
hwilsin
Drew Stanfield