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coffee convo Hwilsin writing

RULE NUMBER EIGHT

This one has brought up some heated debates. Truth be told, if you are arguing against this rule, I’m not so sure how fun you are to surf with. It’s pretty straight forward. It feels like common sense, but you might be surprised..


Rule Number Eight

IF IT’S CROWDED, WEAR A LEASH.


Look, I get it, especially all you longboarders. It’s cool not to wear a leash. It’s /trendy. You are much more stylish without the rope attached. It’s like a tie – the suit goes well without it.

“Leashes are for dogs.”

Yeah, well, if there’s 15 guys in the lineup sitting underneath you, a leash should be for you as well. It’s a safety thing, clearly. If it’s that big of a deal to you to surf without a leash strapped on, walk up the beach 100 yards. You can surely find a peak to surf on your own. If that is not the case, drive. Or, simply wear a leash.


Nobody, not one surfer I have ever met, loves when a board gets washed through the lineup. I know all of you rippers out there are confident and skilled enough to handle your own and not lose your board while you shred, but just in case, do us all a favor.

I’ve read a take somewhere that someone was advocating for every surfer to take off their leash. The thought was that it would thin out the crowds. Not many people would be surfing if they had to swim down their board every time they went down. Surfing has a steep learning curve as it is – can you imagine? Let alone the lineups on a day-to-day basis. It might possibly be blissful? I like to think that I would still be surfing. Just probably a lot less. I might max out a session at about 10 waves, depending on how many times I fell. It’s an intriguing idea.


Intriguing, yet infeasible. Too many people in the lineups. I know some of you may be scoffing at this entire rule – you may surf lineups virtually empty everyday. Well, I hate you,and go ahead and ignore this. This rule is for anyone located South of Ventura. And for you too, lest you find yourself on some adventure across the globe in search of waves. Absolutely DO NOT paddle out to a foreign lineup without a leash. Don’t be that person.


Cheers,

hwilsin

Drew Stanfield

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