It’s a strange phenomenon to struggle with an identity crisis into your 30’s. Just ask Kolohe Andino. Tour surfer / Family Man. 2 percent / Steko. Fuck the industry / thank you industry. There are a lot of decisions to be made, and it’s pretty easy to spot an indecisive person.
Which is why it’s been so easy to see that I have been reluctant to fully dive in here. I’ve been half stepping. I’ve been questioning myself and my decisions; I’m overthinking rather than acting.
What am I even writing for?
Is anyone reading this?
Who cares about surfing anyway?
Surf media is already covered from every angle, why am I wasting my time?
What does my opinion matter anyway?
Etc. etc.
I’m making a change – drawing a line in the sand. You can’t catch a wave if you’re sitting on your board thinking about it, you’ve got to put your head down and go. I know I’ve said stuff like this before, so I’ll just have to prove it to you.
What is hvoide? What does it mean and what does it stand for? What do I want it to represent?
These are questions that we will answer together. Right now it’s a literal void – it’s nonsense. An empty nothingness that I’ve been throwing my thoughts and opinions about surfing into. Here and there I might provide some kind of insight, a bit of information, maybe some stats – and those posts will noticeably do better than everything else. But I also want to share stories. Learn about people and surfing and surf history and boards. Board design, wave forecasting, contests and video parts – there’s a ton to talk about. Surfing is always moving.
So my line in the sand might get washed by the tide. And then I’ll draw another one. We’ll keep moving the bar. Because one thing I’ve decided is that I want to be in this surf space. I love it, it’s my passion. And I know it. I know how to surf. I know how to judge and how to glass and repair a board. How to tell a good surfer from a kook. How to carry my board and wait my turn in the lineup, and all the unwritten rules (which I am writing !). I know this whole thing. Obviously not all of it – I just talked about having a ton of questions. So we’ll be doing some studying, some research and homework, and I’ll be sharing it with you all.
This post is as much for you as it is for me. It’s a reminder. A little prep talk. A confidence boost before paddling out into some unknown waters.
So come along for the journey. Let’s have a surf. Enter the hvoide. We’ll find some new music, watch some cool videos, make some cool videos, talk about contests, share good places to eat, find some new spots to surf, maybe make some merchandise, learn about surfers and shapers and industry people. We’re gonna do it all. Welcome to the soirée.
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Cheers,
hwilsin
Drew Stanfield