DROWSY

I generally don’t watch many surf videos on youtube. Definitely no vlogs. I’ve previously explained how I feel there is already too much surfing to get my eyes on, specifically on Instagram. Every clip hits the internet before the surfers get their hair dry, and you scroll through it within a day. What’s the point of watching a full length edit of waves I’ve already seen?


As fate would have it, however, I found myself awake in the wee hours of the morning, tending to my 1 month old newborn. Fighting off sleep is tough work. You know those times when you get caught inside for a set, duck-dive after duck-dive, wondering when it’s going to end? It’s like that, but the waves are not water. It’s just waves of tiredness engulfing you, beating you down. I shouldn’t complain though. My lady has been nothing short of amazing. Such a trooper. I couldn’t be more thankful. 


So here I am, drowsy and disoriented, sleep scrolling for something to help keep my eyes pried open; some noise, anything. I was about 7, maybe 8 minutes into this video when I was abruptly snapped out of my daze by Timo Simmers chipping in, setting a line and getting drained on an absolute screamer. Holy shit. I think I could have made that. Trunks? Cerulean Blue water? Sand? Where the fuck is this? What’s going on? I had to rewind.

Now I’ve got to say, bravo. I stayed awake, I can tell you that much. This is a must watch. In my small surf circle, I’ve talked about this video more than a handful of times already. It’s one similar to the likes of ‘The Snake’ with Mick, or even Kelly’s original video announcing the Ranch. In these comparisons, I realized that surfers really dropped the ball on Skeleton Bay. Unless maybe I missed it? I don’t think there was any full edit about that place, that story has been told through short, dumb, meaningless clips. This was much better. 


Anyways, watch it. It’s worth the 30 minutes or whatever. We need more full lengths with stories like this. Great work.


Cheers,

hwilsin

Drew Stanfield

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