The best waves are the ones that we don’t see coming; the unexpected swell. Showing up to the beach ready for a regular old rinse, but then the waves are cooking – that’s one of the best feelings in surfing. The lineups are much emptier than they should be. There’s plenty of parking. Nobody in the lineup is telling you “dude, you should have been here yesterday..” Seriously though, doesn’t that get old?
The collective surf world waited in anticipation like a child on Christmas eve, certain that the rest of the population would explode in awe at the marvel that is surfing after the showing at Teahupoo in the Olympics. All we got was one viral photo. Those were some of the ‘best’ waves I’m talking about though – unexpected. I don’t know for sure, I haven’t been looking at Surfline, but from the other stuff I read and hear, that Day 3 was not on anyone’s chart. Sincerely one of the most entertaining days of surfing I have ever watched. If you didn’t get to tune in, you might have to ask for your buddy’s log in to Peacock. I’m not sure it’s available anywhere else. Joao and Ramzi surfed one of the better heats of the past few years. And Finals Day is tomorrow, or today, depending on when you’re reading this.
So now there’s this hurricane they’ve been talking about. It could send us some waves. It wouldn’t be very startling if it does – it’s already on the forecast. I think they’re calling it a ‘tropical’ swell now. It’s not supposed to get very big, 4-5 on the best day, but man could I go for some unexpected waves right now. The summer crowd has been in full effect. The US Open is in town, and the entire CS has been around warming up. I’m itching to get away for a quiet surf. That can’t be done without swell. So cross your fingers with me, do the Malibu wave call, and let’s pray for surf.
Cheers,
hwilsin
Drew Stanfield