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coffee convo Hwilsin writing

GO

Don’t think about it, just go. Paddle out. Put your suit on and catch a couple. Remember, 3 waves counts as a surf. 3 waves, or an hour – your call.  When’s the last time you regretted surfing? When have you gotten out of the water and were actually bummed that you paddled out? I […]

Categories
coffee convo Hwilsin writing

FUN, RIGHT?

Surfing is supposed to be fun, right? So why am I sitting out here so damn pissed off? Maybe it’s that dude who will not shut the fuck up. He paddles back out after every wave he catches and has to give a complete rundown to someone. He doesn’t even give a shit who. As […]