Surfing is supposed to be fun, right? So why am I sitting out here so damn pissed off?
Maybe it’s that dude who will not shut the fuck up. He paddles back out after every wave he catches and has to give a complete rundown to someone. He doesn’t even give a shit who. As long as someone is within ear shot, he’ll comment on his last wave.
“Agh, I should have given it an extra paddle. Yep. Got up too early, and I had to work to get in. It set the pace way off for the whole wave, and I felt like I was working against it. Agh.”
**little water splash**
**rolling my eyes**
Maybe it’s his buddy who’s been sitting outside for the last hour, picking off the second wave of every set that comes through on his giant shortboard. One of those M23’s or some shit. It’s like taking a sword to a knife fight, that fucking cheater. Let a set go man, you don’t have to get every single one. Especially when it’s that easy for you. That’s not fair.
**me, splashing water**
Maybe it’s that pack of groms sitting 10 yards underneath me, snagging every single bump that rolls through. I can’t even paddle for a damn wave without having a battle with one of them. Some of the older kids don’t even give a shit; they basically paddle straight in your line. Can’t really blame ‘em though – half the people out here paddle for waves they can’t, or don’t catch. But shit, I know they’ve seen me catch a couple. They know I can at least make it down the line. Where’s the respect nowadays?
**passively aggressively paddling south to a lesser peak**
Maybe it’s the sand in my wetsuit. Maybe it’s the leaky seal rinsing me with 58 degree water at 7am. Is it the sun, blinding me on any right I take off on for the first hour of the daylight? Maybe it’s this beat up board? It’s got to be this board. It’s beyond time for a new one. This one’s riding like shit. I’m bogging both rails at the same time.
But surfing’s supposed to be fun, isn’t it?
Even if I was riding a wooden door, I should still be enjoying it, right? It’s a workout, and it’s outdoors, and its nature, and natural, and healthy, and fun – right?
It’s not fun today. There’s 3 waves in a set, if we’re lucky, and there’s about one set per hour. At least that’s what it feels like. I’ve been sitting here for an hour and a half, and I’ve caught 3 waves..
Is that why I’m pissed off? My wave count? Because even if I only caught those 3 waves, I should have had fun, right?
Maybe it’s because I fucking suck. I like to think – oh yeah, today’s the day. I’m getting out there and I’m gonna fucking tear. Only to bog rail after coming down from an off balance floater, getting caught behind the rest of the wave.
Maybe it’s these fins. I should go stiffer. Or bigger. That’ll do the trick.
Maybe I should start surfing Newport? This waves a damn mushburger.
Maybe I should ride alternate boards? I don’t even have to try as hard; it’s all about style.
I have no fucking style. That’s what I should be mad at.
Maybe its this freezing fucking water. Maybe it’s this entire crowd. Why do I live here again?
It could be that quiet dude over there. He’s not doing much but absolutely ripping, and it’s bugging the shit out of me. I can’t surf like that, and every wave he gets looks way better than what I’m catching. Damnit. At least someone’s having fun, right?
**looks left**
**looks right**
And all of this was fun when I started, right? The simplicity of standing up on moving energy was all that I needed to tap into that dopamine. My tolerance is too high now. I’m a surf junkie, and I’ve become spoiled. That’s all surfing has done for me.
But hey, the forecast looks good. Should be waves later this week. Maybe it’ll be fun, right?
Cheers,
hwilsin
Drew Stanfield