FOR WHAT?

I had a really fun surf the other day. It was my 127th day surfing this year.

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I started keeping track of my surfs last year. I noticed my time in the water slipping a lot, so I wanted to make sure I hit a certain goal. I set my mark for 100 days of surfing last year, and I ended somewhere around 110.

This year I set my goal for 120. I figured it shouldn’t be a stretch to surf 10 days a month. That’s actually not much at all. But here I sit, feeling high and mighty, since I’ve already reached my goal for the year.

I was thinking about this in the water during my surf. ‘I surf a lot’ – I thought. What’s today – it’s almost October? Quick math check – I could break 200 days this year!

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There was one lady to the south of me by about 50 yards, and one older fellow about 30 yards to my right. Other than that, the lineup was empty.

The waves were incredibly fun. It was small, chest to shoulder high at best, but had really good shape. The tide was rising, and the sand bar was breaking from the outside, basically to the shore.

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Where is everybody? How are we the only people out here? 

I surfed 4 days in a row last week that were much worse than this, yet had, literally, 10 times the amount of people in the water. Sure, it was a different part of the beach I was surfing, but still, it’s empty. 

I bet it’s because of the fog. People don’t surf if they can’t check the cameras first. I knew this to be correct. Since I surf so much, I know how surfers think. 200 days! That’s more days surfing than not surfing! To quote Kurt’s Cousin “YOU LIKE THAT?!”

I fucking love it. Because I’m a surfer. CoreLord. The Real Deal. I don’t even check the cams, I just drive straight down and suit up. I’m out there.

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My 2nd to last wave of that day:

Stand up – feet in the wrong spot. Adjust.

Pump. Bottom Turn. Carve attempt in a nice pocket – fall.

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All that surfing. 200 days! For what?

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Cheers,

hwilsin

Drew Stanfield