I was recently exposed to a bitter suggestion from a local around my parts that I would like to share with you. Actually, it was at least a year ago, possibly longer, and at the time I definitely just laughed off the proposition. He’s quite the talker – almost any time I run into him he’s zigging through the parking lot, stopping every car or two. Out in the lineup it’s the same thing – cruising from peak to peak, sharing his hellos and latest gossip while back paddling you for the set left. Hard to miss kind of dude who emulates Slater; small, bald, tan, fit, always wearing flip-flops, surfs pretty good, and loud. He once yelled at me to go on a wave –while he was on the inside, from like 2 peaks down. He’s actually a really nice guy, and from my understanding most people around here like him, or at least don’t mind him. It’s just that, (deep breath) he always has something to say. ALWAYS. Like some sort of advice your missing out on, or news you didn’t hear about that he did. Or he’ll be getting out of the water while you’re suiting up, and you get the 5-10 minute run down of how his session was, what the conditions are like, where you should sit, how the current is, the people that are out there, and the really good one he got. Anyways, this particular day, my buddy and I met down at the usual parking lot and we were just about to suit up when we’re approached by Ole Faithful.
“Whatsup Boys! Its pretty fun out there..” Glancing back and forth at each other wondering who’s going to employ themselves into this consultation, my partner captains the rebuttal in one quick breath, “Yeah? How’s the water? You just get out?” O.F – what we’ll refer to our protagonist as – passes a sheepish grin, “Nah, I’m not paddling out, I can’t. I’m heading to (down the beach). 3 Day Lot Rule.” Befuddled, my comrade and I again exchange a quick look before I had to retort, “What do you mean you can’t? What’s the 3 Day Lot Rule?” At this O.F almost chuckled, but implied more of a snicker. “You guys meet, hangout, and surf here at the same spot everyday. What about all the other waves? I never surf at the same parking lot more than 3 days in a row.”
If O.F had anything else to say to me that day it was completely irrelevant. The 3 Day Lot Rule engulfed my introspection. I suppose at the time I might have asked him a few paramount follow up questions –why did he adhere by such a rule? What exactly did this rule entail? – however, the only memory I can extract from that experience is my modest inauguration to this ludicrous theory. Why would I want to surf anywhere other than my normal haunt? Why only 3 days in a row? Where else is even worth it to surf? Sure, there are a handful of middling waves within 20 minutes in either direction, but nothing substantial enough to make the drive every fourth day. I’m lucky enough to live where we have waves pretty close to all year round. I can’t remember the last time we have gone even one full week without having any waves to surf. Plus, at my joint I already know most of the local guys, I can usually get my fair share in the lineup, and I’m comfortable making my way out there in most conditions. It makes some sort of sense for him to abide by this rule, being such an extrovert and loving company, but I could not see myself falling in line with this creed.
Surfing a new spot is always a love/hate relationship for me. I love exploring, surfing good waves, the fired up hike or trek down in anticipation of something imagined, and the drive back home after scoring. I hate getting skunked, wrecking my board and/or feet on some fucked up, unfamiliar sea-bottom, breaking down on the way, and shitty vibes from foreign lineups. Getting away from my home spot is definitely necessary sometimes, due to a plethora of reasons including: super high or low tides, rains, too much size, and no parking. But, it’s not a weekly thing in my opinion. I will have stints where I surf a spot that’s not my typical post for a few days in a row, but that’s usually due to the aforementioned cases. I prefer the comfort of my home zone. However, looking back on it now, maybe its time to be uncomfortable.
We are living in a very interesting time period, to say the least. Most of the world seems to be undergoing some sort of change; socially, politically, technologically, financially, etc. In the initial writing of this post, I had the intent of simply sharing an old experience that I had just recently recollected and brought up to a friend. While revising and re-reading the piece it occurred to me, although not entirely related to current events, this situation needs a change. Now is the occasion to rid our selves of old routines, ways of thinking, and lifestyles. This year has brought upon us all some of the most uncomfortable and “unprecedented” times in recent history. The one thing we can all do to try to better our position is to educate our selves in the most impartial ways. In my experience, traveling outside of my comfort zone has only provided more of an opportunity to study and learn from other people. We need to know where we are going in order to steer this thing.
It takes as much energy to wish as it does to plan.
Eleanor Roosevelt
-hwilsin